Lost your basset? Please
email
us with as much information as possible and include pictures
and identifying tag information. We ask that you
update us when you locate your basset. Basset Rescue of Florida
strongly suggests that you have your basset microchipped (and
be sure to register the chip and keep the information updated!).
Found a basset? Please
do not take to a kill shelter! We realize that it is an
imposition on you but most dogs turned into kill shelters as
strays will only have about 3 days to live before they are killed. We
will work with you to find a resolution to prevent this. Remember
that the basset you found probably has a family that loves them
very, very much and they are probably desperately searching for
them right now. Here are the steps you should take:
If you have found a stray Basset then you
should first call the local animal shelters, let them know that
you have found a stray and tell them that you will keep
the basset at your home until the owner is found. They
should take a report from you that will be posted at their facility
so that if the owner comes looking for their basset, they will
see your report.
Look for tags from vet clinics, city registrations
or other identifying tags and contact those places. Also
take the basset to your local vet to be scanned for a microchip.
If that does not produce an owner, you should then advertise
the basset in your local paper for 3 days. Most
newspapers will run a lost dog ad for free. Do not
give out information on the dog in the ad but instead let the
people call you and describe the dog so that you can tell whether
they are the true owners of the dog. Unfortunately there are
many crazy and bad people who may try to claim the basset as
their own so be very careful that you are really dealing with
the basset's owner. Also, please be aware that some people
watch for ads such as these in an effort to acquire a dog easily
for selling to experimental labs, for use in baiting fighting
dogs or to use for breeding purposes or to sell for monetary
gain if possible. We suggest after they have properly described
the basset to you, ask them who their vet and arrange to
meet them at that vet's office and get them to verify that this
is the owner of this basset.
As an aid to bassets and basset rescues everywhere,
we suggest that you recommend to the found owner that they spay/neuter
their pet which will prevent some of the wandering behavior and
also microchip their pet to allow for easy identification in
the future.
If the above do not reunite the found basset
or if it is an emergency situation please email
us and we will
contact you within 12 hours and we'll work to help you.
Again,
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THE BASSET TO A KILL
SHELTER - you would not
want someone to take your beloved pet to one...
The author of the following
article is Julie Atkinson, meowtrageous2@comcast.net.
Julie has given her permission to cross-post and forward this
article so that others may benefit from it. Please do.
12 Steps to Better Your Chances of Finding Your Pet
Step One -
Search your property thoroughly and the property of the homes
on either side of your home. Cats, small dogs, and other types
of small pets can get into some pretty strange places.
*You need to look in EVERY nook and cranny. Don't assume that
your pet would never crawl into a tiny little space or some small
hole. In fact, don't assume anything. Cats especially, because
they use their whiskers to determine whether or not they can
go through an opening, plus they have the ability to collapse
their rib cage in order to slink into a very small space. So,
for cat owners, think about the measurement or length between
the left and right side ends of your cat's whiskers, it will
probably be somewhere around 6 inches. While conducting your
search, be sure to check any opening that is 6 inches wide because
your cat could very well have gone through an opening of this
size.
*Look behind, under, and inside washing machines, clothes dryers,
stoves, refrigerators, and dish washers. Check behind water heaters,
under furniture, in closets, in cabinets, on shelves and in bookcases,
in drain pipes, in sewer drains, in boxes, in culvert pipes,
under vehicles, look through the crawl spaces under the house,
inside sheds and barns, and especially under decks. Even if the
deck in your back yard sits right on the ground, if there is
an opening that is at least 6 inches wide then your pet may have
been able to crawl underneath. We actually pulled up several
boards of the deck in our backyard, stuck a flash light and a
camera down through the holes and took pictures of the entire
area underneath our deck. In the case of cats, also look in attic
crawl spaces, on the roof, in roof gutters, and up in the trees.
Step Two -
Walk around your neighborhood, talk to everybody, and leave
your phone number and a picture of your pet with everyone that
you come into contact.
*Go to each house in the area where your pet was lost and talk
to the residents. Write down a description of your lost pet,
or better yet, have flyers ready to hand out to each person,
but whatever you do be sure that you give everyone your phone
number. Leave the information or flyer attached to the front
door, if homeowners do not answer the door.
*Caution - It is against Federal law to leave flyers or any
other un-stamped or un-postmarked material in someone's mailbox.
*Talk to everybody you run into. This includes the postman,
paperboy, children, parents waiting at the school bus stop, school
crossing guards, neighborhood crime watch captains, garbage pick-up
workers, etc. Give them a written description (or the Flyer)
of your pet and your phone number as well.
*Try to get all the neighborhood children involved. Kids are
great at finding lost pets! Have a meeting with all of the neighborhood
children and invite the parents to come. The information you
give to them can be invaluable.
*At your meeting, ask everybody if they saw or heard anything
unusual in the neighborhood and carefully write down everything
they tell you. This could include strange vehicles, work crews,
people, or activities. Get detailed descriptions of everything.
*Whenever you set out on foot to search for your pet, don't
travel alone. Take a friend or family member with you.
*Don't ever give out your full name or address. Scam artists
and other criminals in our society can and will use this information
against you and your family. Remember, it is never a good idea
to publicize this information no matter what the reason may be.
*Offer a reward, but don't state the amount.
Step Three -
Make some noise while you walk around the neighborhood! Animals
can hear you from great distances.
*Have your family members call the pet's name where ever they
may go.
*If your pet has a favorite "toy" that has a bell
or makes a sound, bring it along and use it to help you make
familiar noises.
*Use a "Dog Whistle" to get your pet's attention.
The high-pitched sound from these whistles can carry up to a
mile or more. Cats are attracted to this sound as well as dogs.
( Note: this whistle is the "silent" ultrasonic type,
but has a simple adjustment that lowers the tone into the human
audible range. Use this audible tone when searching for your
pet because the sound will carry farther).
*Carry a box or can of your pet's favorite biscuits, chews,
or other treats and rattle it loudly while calling your pet's
name.
*Make any other noises that your pet may be familiar with.
*It's also important to stop regularly, be quiet, and listen
for your pet to make a noise in reply.
*The neighbors will think you're crazy, but hey, this is your
pet's life we're talking about here!
Step Four -
Bring a powerful flashlight (even during daylight hours) for
checking in dark spaces.
*A frightened or injured animal will hide in dark spaces and
will not come to you.
*Use your flashlight for checking under houses and other dark
spots. Also check storage sheds, garages, dumpsters, trash cans,
and under cars. Don't forget to look in trees for a cats and
other pets that access tree tops.
Step Five -
Place strong-scented articles outside your home to attract your
pet. Animals find their way by scent as well as sound.
*Place some of your dirty clothes outdoors. Sweaty gym socks
and jogging suits are great for this!
*Place a cat's litterbox, bedding, and favorite toys outside.
*Place a dog's bedding and favorite toys outside.
*Put out some smelly food such as tuna, sardines, or warm,
freshly cooked chicken, liver, or other savory meat. Be sure
to protect the food if you can, so that other animals don't eat
it!
*If it's warm weather, crate other family pets and place them
outside in a SAFE and SECURE area.
Step Six -
Call local veterinarian offices during the day. After 5 PM,
call veterinarian emergency clinics.
*Find out if your pet was injured and taken to any of these
offices or clinics for treatment.
*If an office has taken in or treated any animal that even
remotely resembles your pet, VISIT THE OFFICE IN PERSON. Your
description of your pet and their description of the same pet
rarely match. YOU MUST GO SEE FOR YOURSELF!
*Also ask them for the phone numbers of local rescue organizations.
They generally keep a list and may even work with them.
*Call each of the rescue organizations and ask for their help
and find out if they have your pet. These groups generally network
with each other and will pass the word about your case.
*Be sure to leave a flyer with each of the veterinary offices
you visit. If you don't physically visit each office then send
them a packet containing all of the information pertaining to
your pet, especially any significant medical history that may
help them to identify your pet.
Step Seven -
VISIT your local Animal Control, humane societies, and animal
shelters, including the ones in surrounding areas.
*You must actually visit the animal control and humane shelters
every day or two. It works well if several family members can
take turns visiting the shelters.
*Your description of your pet and their description rarely
match. YOU MUST GO LOOK ! Be sure to check all areas of the shelter,
including the infirmary. Also be aware that dogs may be housed
in the cat section and vice-versa.
*Leave a picture of your pet and your phone number at each
shelter. Befriend the workers at the shelter, you get more bees
with honey than you do with vinegar.
*Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane
shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet
before it is euthanized!
*Government Animal Control agencies usually keep an animal
for only 3 - 4 days and then they either adopt it out or kill
it. You only get one chance at this. Be there!
Step Eight -
Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet
rescue organizations in your area.
*Usually there are many small pet rescue groups that work with
the local humane shelter. They often take pets from the shelter
to save them from euthanasia and adopt them out to new homes.
*Call the rescue groups regularly to see if they have your
pet. Ask to visit their foster homes so that you can check for
your pet in person.
Step Nine -
Find out if your pet has been killed on the road. (DOA reports
are usually available at the Animal Shelter front desks)
*This is a very sad but necessary task. Otherwise, you may
never know what happened to your pet and it could haunt you for
years.
*The road crews for your local and state Department of Transportation
will usually pick up dead animals from the highways and freeways.
The Animal Control Department is usually responsible for roads
and city streets. You have to call around and find out which
agencies do this service in your area. Be sure to find them all!
*Dogs are usually picked up within 24 hours, but cats and other
animals often are not.
*Call the city, county, and state road crews, and Animal Control
EVERY DAY to see if they have found your pet's body. The Animal
Services Department will usually have a DOA list available for
public viewing, if so, you can check while your visiting the
shelter to look for your pet.
*If any of the agencies do not cooperate with your efforts,
contact City Hall as a last resort and complain. This usually
gets a response. But remember, you will get better results with
courteous personal visits.
* f your pet is wearing an ID tag, the DOT and/or Animal Control
agencies should contact you if they find your pet dead along
the road. But don't count on it. You must put forth the effort
to find out for yourself!
*Sadly, this section has a higher "find" rate than
anything else except posted flyers.
Step Ten -
It is extremely important to post as MANY flyers as you can
about your lost pet.
*From the point where your pet was last seen, place your posters
within:
* a 6-mile radius for cats
* a 20-mile radius for dogs
*If you receive a call from someone stating that they saw
your pet near his or her home or business, it will be extremely
difficult to physically "hang around" this person's
house or place of business, however you do have other options.
You can send your flyers directly to homes and/or businesses
via the US Postal Service. This can be costly but it could
provide you with more sighting information. Here's how you
go about this process.
*You will need to have at least 500 flyers for each area
that you decide to do a "mailing." They do not have
to be color flyers, black and white will suffice for this purpose.
To save some time, have the printer or copying service tri-fold
the flyers for you; this costs about 3 cents per copy.
Title companies generally maintain current lists of the names
and addresses of each homeowner in each housing subdivision
in your city or town. You can purchase these subdivision databases
for a minimal fee of about twenty dollars per subdivision.
Call the local title companies in your town and ask if you
can purchase the database for "Country Meadows Estates" or whatever
the name is of the subdivision where the sighting of your pet
occurred. Ask them to send the database via email. This way you
should be able to convert or transfer the information into one
of your database programs on your computer, such as Excel. Using
the database program on your computer you should be able to print
mailing labels for each homeowner in that particular subdivision.
If you don't want to generate the labels yourself, the title
companies can provide you with mailing labels but the there is
an added cost for this service. Affix the labels to your flyers
and check with your Post Office for the proper method of sealing
the flyers. Do not send your flyers "Bulk Mail" as
many post offices only send out Bulk Mail at specific times
of the month. Time is of the essence and you cannot risk waiting
for your flyers to be delivered on Bulk Mail delivery days.
*Overall, flyers or posters produce more "finds" than
anything else. But don't neglect the rest of the tips!
*Your budget will determine how many flyers you can afford
to post, but the more the better.
Step Eleven -
HERE IS THE TYPE OF INFORMATION THAT SHOULD and SHOULD NOT BE
ON YOUR FLYER
*If possible, it is best to place a color photo of your pet
on each flyer.
*Use 8-1/2" X 11" fluorescent paper for high visibility.
*List the date and place your pet was lost, breed of dog or
cat, sex, age, weight, color, markings, and your telephone number.
*Offer a reward , but don't state the amount.
*Do not put your full name or address on the flyer, just your
phone number.
*It is very important to always withhold several identifying
marks and characteristics of your lost pet. You may need to use
these later to verify that a person has actually found your pet
and is not trying to scam you. More on this later.
*Post the flyers on telephone or street light poles, at a
level as far above your head as possible, as there are those
that find it amusing to destroy posters of this type. By placing
the posters as high as possible you will most likely discourage
anyone from attempting to destroy your poster. Take a small
step stool or ladder with you when you are placing the posters
on telephone and light poles. If it is during the winter or
rainy season, put your posters in "top loading plastic pages",
however, you will want the opening to be at the bottom. This
way you can prevent (AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE) the ink from running
due to the moisture in the air. Be sure to use wide clear tape.
Packing tape works very well and it is stickier than most other
tapes. Tape all four sides of the poster, so that someone cannot
simply stick a finger or a stick under an edge of your poster
and rip it down.
Taking these extra measures when posting your flyer will give
your poster a much better chance of remaining in its spot for
an adequate length of time. If anyone thinks about ripping down
your poster, he or she will to have to through as much effort
to take it down as you did putting it up. All other posters can
be placed at eye level, such places as veterinary offices, pet
shops, barber & beauty shops, grocery stores, community bulletin
boards, churches, pizza parlors, laundromats, convenience stores,
near schools, and on school bulletin boards.
*Examine your posted flyers frequently and replace the ones
that are missing or damaged.
Step Twelve -
Place an ad in your local newspaper and/or an Internet Lost
and Found web site. Some will do this for free, but most of the
time those that are placing Lost Ads have to pay. It is generally
only free to those that are placing Found Ads.
*Be sure to advertise in the Sunday edition as well as during
the week.
*Also place an ad in any "Penny Saver" type of
publications you might have in your area.
*Check the Lost and Found section of the newspaper everyday.
*Most newspapers provide free ads to people who have found
lost pets.
*Also check regularly in any other local publications.
*Don't ever give up! Pets have been known to find their way
back home after being lost for several months. Good luck!
Respond to All Sightings if at all possible, respond to every
sighting in person. Here's why:
*There have been numerous instances where the lost pet's
physical description has changed slightly from when the animal
was in the care of its original owner. For instance; let's
say your dog was not wearing a collar or I.D. tags and you
receive a call from someone who believes they have seen your
dog. You discuss the physical description of your dog with
the caller and everything matches except for the fact that
the dog they found was wearing a collar or I.D. tags. Do not
immediately assume that the dog is not yours because it is
wearing a collar and/or I.D. tags and your dog was not. Many
times, people who have taken in a stray animal will place a
collar or I.D. tags on the animal. They do this for the same
reasons that you should place collars and I.D. tags on your
animals. In the event, the animal gets loose, the finder will
call the phone number on the I.D. tags to notify the "owner" that
their animal has been found.
*In the case of PET THEFT, physical characteristics are often
altered on purpose. If someone has stolen your pet, the thief
may very well alter certain physical characteristics so the
animal is less likely to resemble it original appearance in
the hopes that if people should see the cat or dog, they will
not be as quick to associate the animal's description with
a description seen on a "Lost Cat" or "Lost Dog" flyer
they may have seen posted in the area.
Pet thieves will also make every attempt to tear down your "Lost
Cat" or "Lost Dog" posters, so pay attention
to posters that are repeatedly torn down or removed. If this
does occur, enlist the aid of homeowner nearby, who can see
the flyer from their place of residence. Ask them to keep an
eye on your poster and tell them to call you immediately if
they see someone removing your poster. Ask them to jot down
the following things; a description of the person or persons,
a description of the vehicle and if at possible, to get the
license plate number, the time of day the poster was torn down,
and anything else that strikes them as being unusual or peculiar
about the person(s) or vehicle. If they happen to get a license
plate number, immediately call your local law enforcement and
report the incident.
Do not call the police unless you are able to get the vehicle
license plate number, they cannot provide any assistance to you
without this information.
*Below is a list of physical characteristics that can easily
change or alter someone's description of a found dog or cat and
you should not discount any sightings of your pet based on slight
or moderate differences of the following physical characteristics:
*A) Collars, I.D. Tags, and/or Leads Discussed earlier.
*B) Cats with claws as opposed to cats that have been declawed.
Obviously, this characteristic can only be changed from one
perspective. If your cat had its front claws, there is a possibility,
especially if your cat has been missing for a number of months,
that someone could have gone to the expense of removing your
cats front claws. This is an expensive procedure, and the odds
are less likely that someone would put forth the expense to
purposefully keep the cat from being returned to its original
owner. The changing of this characteristic would more likely
occur if your cat was found by someone who decided to "adopt" the "stray
cat" into his or her home. So, you should not rule out a
sighting of your cat based solely on the condition of "claws
vs. no claws."
*C) Hair and Grooming. Changing this facet of a pet's appearance
is the easiest to achieve and generally tends to have the greatest
overall effect. Here again, this characteristic can only be
changed from one perspective. Obviously pets with short hair
can not be made to instantly grow long hair. However, those
pets with medium to long hair can go through a dramatic change
of appearance simply through the use of specific hair cutting
and grooming techniques. You would be surprised just how much
you can change the outward appearance of an animal even if
it is with a simple hair cut or shave. So, again, do not rule
out sightings based on characteristics involving hair length
or grooming. It is always "better
to be safe than sorry" and check out every sighting in
person.
*D) Intact, Spayed, or Neutered. For those of you whose pet's
sexual organs were "intact" at the time of their
disappearance, several things may have occurred.
First of all, shame on you! Unless you are a registered breeder,
there is absolutely no justifiable reason for your pet not to
be spay or neutered.
Secondly, there are many people out there who when they see
a cat or dog roaming the streets freely and the cat or dog
has not been spayed or neutered, immediately assume that the
animal has been abandoned or that the animal is homeless. Why,
you ask? Because in the minds of many people who have chosen
to volunteer for agencies involved in animal rescue, it is
very common for animals that are found roaming the streets,
still "intact",
to be immediately scooped up by rescuers and immediately taken
into a veterinary clinic for spay and neuter surgery.
These rescuers are in a constant battle, fighting to keep thousands
upon thousands of animals from being euthanized, all because
of unwanted litters that are born everyday. Many times these
young defenseless animals are turned out into the streets to
fend for themselves because the owner doesn't want the responsibility
of finding homes for new arrivals. This chain reaction is primarily
a direct result of pet owners who have failed in their civic
and moral responsibility of having their pets spayed or neutered.
For many of these rescuers, the thought of someone not spaying
or neutering their pet and then letting the pet roam freely outside,
says only one thing to them. The pet owner is not acting responsibly
for the safety of the animal and they feel it is their duty to
ensure that these animals receive the proper medical treatment.
Often they will schedule immediate spay and neuter procedures
for these animals. If your lost pet is unaltered, the likelihood
of your pet suddenly becoming spayed or neutered is actually
very high. The longer your animal remains on the loose, the chances
that your pet will retain its unaltered status, is not very high.
*E) Ask the finder to take a photograph of the animal, especially
if the traveling distance to the finder's home requires you to
go out of your way to make traveling plans, i.e., a round-trip
drive that may take you longer than 3 hours to complete. The
finder should understand your dilemma and attempt to provide
you with some means of seeing the animal before you go through
the trouble of making extensive traveling plans in order to see
the animal in person. And NEVER GO ALONE!
A Few Words Of Caution
There are dangerous people in our society who prey upon victims
by using "found" pets as a ploy.
*NEVER respond to a "found" pet contact alone.
Take a friend or two along with you.
*Arrange to meet in a public place.
*NEVER invite the person to your home unless you happen to
know him or her well.
Beware of money scams. A common one is a person calls you claiming
to be a long-haul trucker. He says he picked up your pet and
is out of state now. He heard about your ad, flyer, etc. and
says he will return your pet if you will pay to ship it home.
This person does not have your pet, he is only trying to take
your money. Don't wander around looking for your pet alone, either
during the day or at night. Always bring a friend or relative.
This is especially important in unfamiliar neighborhoods. Use
the identifying information you have withheld about your pet.
Please remember that you should never give out all of the identifying
features of your lost pet. If the person who claims to have found
your pet cannot describe these features to you, he or she does
not have your pet!
When You Find Your Pet
Go around and collect up all of your old flyers.
Thank everybody who has helped you. Let us know! We are always
glad to hear about lost and found "success" stories.
How To Protect Your Pets Now
Safeguard your pets before they are lost by following the common-sense
tips below. Pet-proof your yard fence so your cat or dog will
be safely confined. Be sure to check your fence regularly for
new escape routes. Keep fence gates securely locked. This is
for the safety of both your pet and any visitors (wanted or unwanted).
Never allow your pets to roam free in the neighborhood. Leash
them at all times. Always transport a cat in a carrier. Never
take your cat to the vet or anywhere else unless it is secured.
A carried cat can bolt and hide if frightened by loud noises.
When a cat is frightened in strange surroundings, especially
with traffic noise around, it will hide and will not come to
you. The same goes for dogs. Always leash them when taking them
anywhere. If a dog gets loose in an unfamiliar area its chances
of ever finding its way home are practically impossible.
Get some good photos of your pet now, before it's too late.
*Take close-up shots so that details show up well.
*Keep taking shots until you get a few good ones that really
look like your pet. Most snapshots of pets look like any other
cat or dog. You want your photos to be unique and your pet to
be unmistakable.
*These photos will be invaluable to you later if your pet is
ever lost.
Train your pet (cat or dog) to associate a "Dog Whistle" with
pleasant things. Blow the whistle each time just before you feed
them. They will then be more likely to come running to you when
you use the whistle to find them when they are lost.
Ensure that YOU can be located if your pet is found.
*Always keep a collar on your pet with a tag that has your
CURRENT PHONE NUMBER on it.
*Always have a CURRENT rabies tag and pet license tag attached
to your pet's collar. You can be found by the number on the tags.
*A collar and phone tag are the most important form of ID you
can have for your pet.
*Microchips are fast becoming the best form of ID for all domestic
pets. See Below.
*Talk to your vet about a microchip implant. A chip provides
positive and reliable identification for your pet and all modern
shelters scan animals for this ID device. Find out which brand
of chip is prevalent in your area and go with that one. If you
have a choice, we like the HomeAgain microchips.
*HomeAgain microchip is distributed by Schering-Plough Animal
Health. The American Kennel Club maintains a nationwide database
of these microchip numbers. The chip is constructed in a way
that tends to prevent migration from the injection site. Call
(800)234-6373 to find a Vet near you who offers this product.
*Also ask your vet about pet tattoos. We don't like tattoos
as well as we do microchips, but they also provide positive identification
if done correctly. A tattoo is often very difficult to read because
hair has grown over it and/or the lost animal is frightened and
will not allow inspection. If you do use a tattoo, we feel that
the best place to apply it is on the inner thigh. Pet thieves
have been known to cut off a tattooed ear!
More About Rabies Tags
*It is absolutely vital that your pet have a CURRENT rabies
tag on it at all times!
*If a county happens to be under a "Rabies Alert" or
a "Rabies Quarantine" and your pet is picked up without
a current rabies tag, they WILL kill your loved one! It's a
public health issue, so you will have no recourse.
And Finally, Please Spay or Neuter Your Pets!
*Both males and females will be much less likely to wander
if they are "fixed."
*An added benefit is that they will live a longer, happier,
healthier life if they are spayed or neutered.
The Other Side of the Story - Finding a Lost Animal
There is one more thing that I would like to ask everyone to
do. I would really like for people to start spreading the word
about the other half of this plight and that is to report any
and all found pets. We, as humans, tend to assume way too much
about the pets we find wandering our streets. We assume that
they were abandoned, or that they are homeless, or that they
have been abused just because they look unkempt or are injured.
We take these animals into our homes without even thinking that
there might people out there who are looking for these animals.
We fail to realize that we may be causing a tremendous amount
of pain and anguish for the owners of these animals simply because
we do not take the time to do our part by conducting an all-out
effort to find the owners of these animals. We just assume they
need homes and when this happens, and it happens more than you
could ever imagine, the animal ends up being lost forever.
After going through this terribly painful experience, I am a
very powerful and very vocal advocate towards educating our communities
about the legal and moral responsibilities that everyone is obligated
to perform when finding a pet. I guess if there was any one particular
message that I would like to see being spread even further than
the information in the article, it would have be the message
to please educate everyone you know about the responsibilities
that go along with finding lost, stray, homeless, and abandoned
animals. If those who found pets would be as aggressive as those
who are searching for their missing pet, I guarantee you we could
quadruple the amount of reunions occurring between missing pets
and their owners.
AND LAST, BUT NOT LEAST
As you pass along the information to others, what would make
this so gratifying for me, would be if you tell folks that if
they do find their missing pet as a result of reading this information
or if they help someone else find his or her pet because of the
things they learned through reading this article, I would really
love to hear about it. I would love to hear people’s stories.
I would love to know what their situation was and then what method
seemed to work the best for them.
I am thinking of putting together a book regarding the success
stories that resulted from pet owners who actually used one or
more of these search and recovery techniques. If you could tell
everyone that this would mean a great deal to me on a personal
level, to know that my cat's disappearance wasn't in vain . .
well, it would just make everything that I have been though worth
while if I knew that this information was actually making a difference
in peoples lives and in the recovery of their beloved pets.
Thank you for supporting this effort to educate everyone about
the subject of Lost and Found pets.
Julie, meowtrageous2@comcast.net
